is definitely it. Well, Mr. Frost, I hope it ‘makes all the difference’,” Jack said to himself, coining several phrases from Robert Frost’s infamous poem ‘The Road Not Taken’.
Having been ‘rudely awakened’, he worked quickly to prepare for the day. In his earliest plans, he had considered lugging his backpack all the way to the top of the mountain, then climbing down the other side. It would be a difficult chore but he had plenty of supplies and the descent would be easier due to his choice of rappel routes.
After his realization of the dangers from above, he deduced that speed was more important than the luxury of an easy descent. He decided to make his tiny snow cave his base camp for the climb. He intended on taking just the necessities and stowing the rest in the cave.
As he stood and examined the route, he figured he needed little or no rock climbing gear. There were some difficult icy sections, but for the most part it looked like steep snow. It was hard to tell from below, but he guessed he could climb without ropes and protection over more than half the route.
Jack figured that by moving quickly, he could probably climb the 5,500-foot face in two days. In his pack, he would be taking only the absolute necessities: ice gear, food, water, two ropes, two ice axes and a bivy bag (a waterproof, breathable, uninsulated bag to sleep in). In all, the weight of his backpack would now be no more that 20lbs, a far cry from the 80lbs he lugged up the ridge. He could easily climb fast with that little amount.
--- --- --- --- ---
With an ice axe in each hand and his pack on his back, Jack stared up at the snow face above. The route was steep, but not enough for him to consider the use of ropes. He would be hiking nearly upright as he ascended. Unfortunately, if he slid or fell he would not be able to stop himself, so even though the route was relatively easy to climb, it was also deadly if he made a mistake.
Jack could see up as far as 1,000 feet, but then the pitch of the slope lessened a bit and became hidden from view. He could also see the last slopes to the top and guessed those to be about 1,000 to 2,000 feet high. It was now simple math to estimate what was hidden from view, and he guessed it to be 2,000-3,000 feet high and relatively easy, due in part to it being less steep.
The fluted trenches he would be climbing looked to be about thirty feet wide on average, and nondescript. Upon reflection, he likened them to the furrows in a farmer’s field, except that these were vertical. He was glad for this. Even though it was steep, it wasn’t technically challenging – at least the lower section, as far as he could tell.
Taking it all in, he went through a wide range of emotions, mostly fear and anxiety. The unknown was the worst. He had never done anything on this scale before and just didn’t have a feel for what he could expect above. He knew he was strong and skilled, but sometimes that was not enough. If he ran into a situation that was beyond his abilities and climbing down was impossible, he would die. This was a paralyzing thought. He stood for a moment, unable to move. Finally, he pushed through his self-doubt and moved to the slope in front of him.
“Okay, man, don’t psyche yourself out before you even started,” Jack said to himself. “You can do this. Just keep moving forward.”
Jack started up one of the fluted trenches. The snow was hard from the lack of sunshine on the northern side, so his crampons grabbed the top surface without breaking all the way through. He knew that once the sun hit the slopes above, it would soften and he would probably sink to his knees on every step. He decided to take advantage of the climbing conditions by moving as fast as he could.
As if climbing a tall ladder, he worked his feet up the steep face, occasionally placing his hands on the snow in front of him for balance. He started off slow, stepping
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